Each month, a friend and I have lunch together. We try to find restaurants in the Louisville area where we haven’t been before. Biscuit Belly, located at 2723 Lexington Rd*, received a glowing recommendation from a friend, so I had good expectations. I was sorely disappointed.
I ordered the hot brown, a staple of Louisville. For this dish, the restaurant certainly lives up to its name – your belly will be filled with biscuits and not much else. The sauce was made with smoked gouda rather than romano cheese. That gave the dish a tangy but not unpleasant flavor. The sauce covered two huge biscuits, each about 3.5 x 1.5 inches. Between the biscuits was a very small portion, about ¼ cup, of smoked turkey. Two strips of crisp bacon topped the biscuits and six cherry tomatoes adorned the corners.
The turkey tasted fine, but was a far too small portion for $11. Likewise the bacon was crisp and tasted good. However, a ‘normal’ hot brown has large portions of turkey breast – at least 4 times the amount served with this dish. The turkey normally lays on a slab or two of Texas toast. But the star of the dish is normally the turkey paired with the mornay sauce.
In this case, the ‘star’ was the two biscuits. They occupied the majority of the dish. Both were flaky but very dry. I managed to eat about 1/2 of one, until I ran out of sauce.
My friend had a brisket sandwich – brisket served on a split biscuit with some slaw on top. His take was that the brisket was good, but once again the portion of meat was very small in comparison to the huge dry biscuit. Although he professed to like biscuits, he only ate about ¼ of the total biscuit, saying it was dry and needed butter or something similar. This dish was also $11.
Too Much Biscuit
We both felt the dishes were far too expensive, given what they contained. Neither of us had a real problem with the idea of using biscuits in the recipe, but the biscuits were far too dry.
The principal issue was that, while the overall portion of food was about right for the $11 price tag, that portion was dominated by cheap-to-make biscuits which took the place of the proteins usually found in the respective dishes.
We will not be returning to Biscuit Belly.
- This is a new location. Biscuit Belly also has a location in NuLu.